Yarns and fabrics



Patented July 15, 19411 7 7 UNITED STATES PATENT -OFFICE YARNS AND FABRICS Herbert Platt, Cumberland, Md., assignor to Celanese Corporation of America, agcorporation of Delaware No Drawing. Application February 23, 1938 Serial No. 191,970

12 Claims. (Cl. 28-1) This invention relates to yarns and fabrics the fabric in a hot bath. Obviously the degree of made therefrom and is concerned more particutwist will vary with the denier of the yarn. Howlarly with a fabric having a stiffened hand such ever, as a guide to the desired amount of twist, a as an organdy, which hand is acquired solely by yarn of 150 denier, 40 filaments may be-twisted to the type of yarn employed and is not due to a between 30 and 50 turns per inch, or referring to finish applied thereto. The stiffness of the fabric the yarn in terms of its twist coefficient (K), is substantially permanent, since it is not ob obtainable from the formula tained by the use of finishes which may be removed by either washing or dry cleaning or both. g=

An object of the invention is the production of l/demer fabrics having a stiff hand and especially fabrics where t represents the number of turns of twist of an organdy type. ;-Another object of the invenper inch, the yarn should have a twist coefficient tion is the. production of an organdy fabric range of 320 to 600. Also any yarn having a wherein the stiffness is permanent to both washdenier between 65 and 250 made of filaments or ing and dry cleaning. Other objects of the inven- 5 fibers of a denier below 10 may be twisted from tion will appear from the following detailed de- 60 to turns per inch. Such yarn would have scription. a twist coefllcient of from'320 to 480, i. e. a yarn Organdy type fabrics are ordinarily produced having a denier of 250 with a twist of 20 turns by weaving yarns or threads of cotton, regen per inch would have a twist coeflicient'of about erated cellulose or organic derivatives of cellu- 320, and yarn having a denier of 65 with a twist lose to a ninon or voile. These fabrics are then of 60 turns per inch would have a twist coefiicient treated with resins, latex, organic derivatives .of of about 480.

cellulose, starch, etc., to effect a stiffness or or- Although any plasticizer, gaseous or liquid, may

gandy finish on the fabric. These finishes probe present during the twisting of the yarns, I duce a pleasing eflect but they are not permahave found that good results are obtained if the neat to both washing and dry cleaning. Some twisting is effected while the yarn is under the finishes are not afiected by washing but are readinfluence of steam, hot water or other heated ily removed by certain organic liquids that may fluid that has a plasticizing influence on the yarn be present in the fluid used by dry cleaners, only at elevated temperatures. For instance, the whereas other finishes are-not affected by dry, yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose cleaning fluids but are removed or at least parmay be produced by twisting the yarn on a. ring tially destroyed by washing in soap and water. spinning device or upon an upward spinning de- Furthermore, any finish applied to a fabric, has vice by passing the yarn through a steam chama tendency to powder-off after long use, especial-- her or through hot water just prior to, during, or

ly at places where the fabric is continuously just after the insertion of a part of the twist. flexed. Preferably a part'of the twist should be inserted I have now found that organdy type fabrics or while the yarn is actually under the influence of other stifl' fabrics may be made without applythe plasticizing medium. The twisting of the ing afinish to the fabric. These new fabrics ne'cyarns may be very conveniently attained by es'sarily contain some yarns of organic deriva-' 40 means 'of the device described in U. S. Patent No. tives of cellulose and the stiffness is due at least 1,784,581. The twisting operation may also be in part to the thermoplastic nature of these performed on devices constructed in accordance yarns. Having no finish applied thereto to bind with the teachings in U. S. Patents Nos. 2,089,778, the filaments or fibers of theyarns together the 2,089,240, 2,089,229 and 2,089,200. stiffness is permanent, does not powder-off upon The yarns may be steamed or treated with hot flexing of the fabric, and is not affected by either water in the course of one of the twisting operwashing and dry cleaning, or both. ations utilized to apply the requisite twist to the In accordance with my invention, I produce a yarn. Conveniently the yarn may be passed stiffened fabric, especially of the more open weave through a suitable chamber which may, for invariety such as organdy, by weaving the fabric stance, take the form of a tube supplied with from yarns at least some of which are yarns steam of the desired temperature. Ifdesired,

containing an organic derivative of cellulose that the steam may be applied tothe yarn atthe point have been twisted in the presence of a plasticizing at which the twist is actually applied. For this medium to a degree of twist just short "or that purpose, where a twisting machine of the type in suflicie'nt to produce a crepe effect upon treating which twist is applied as the yam is drawn off from a bobbin orlike package is used, the thread guide immediately above the bobbin from which the yarn is drawn off may be mounted at the point of entry of the yarn into the tube or like chamber in which the steam is applied, or the thread guide may actually be within the said tube or like chamber. Preferably the steam is applied only in the minimum quantity necessary to secure the desired effect on the yarn in order that escape of steam and the consequent likelihood of troubles arising from the rusting of machinery and the like may be avoided as far as possible.

If desired, hygroscopic or deliquescent substances or wetting agents, 1. e. agents facilitating the wetting of solids by water, may be applied to or incorporated in the yarns prior to a twisting operation or a steaming or wetting treatment. As examples of such wetting agents may be mentioned soaps of organic or inorganic bases with higher fatty acids, for example, alkali metal,

ammonium or ethanolamine soaps, sulphonated oils, sulphonic acids of alkyl naphthalenes for example butyl naphthalene sulphonic acid, and sulphonic acids or su'lphuric esters of higher aliphatic alcohols or of mineral oils, tar oils and the like. Mention may also be made of wetting agents of a basic character as, for example, the higher poly-amines of the aliphatic series and basic derivatives of the higher fatty acids, for instance, oleyl derivatives of aliphatic diamines or other higher fatty acid derivatives of this character.

Such hygroscopic or deliquescent substances or wetting agents may be applied to the yarns, or, i

if desired, may be incorporated in spinning solu-- tions from which the yarns are prepared. For example, cellulose acetate solutions containing hygroscopic substances such as sodium or potassium acetate or calcium or magnesium chlo ride or nitrate may be spun into filaments and the latter formed into yarns and treated in accordance with the invention. Lubricants, plasticizers and softening agents may also be employed in accordance with the teachings in U. S. Patents Nos. 2,089,241, 2,089,238, 2,089,190 and of cellulose filaments and filaments of other materials may be employed, for example filaments of silk, cotton, or of artificial silk of the regenerated cellulose type. The yarns may be composed of filaments of two or more different kinds whether in respect of material or denier or both. Thusthere may be used threads containing both filaments of cellulose esters or ethers and filaments of natural silk or regenerated cellulose artificial silk, or threads containing cellulose ester or ether filaments of two or more different deniers, or threads containing filaments of one cellulose derivative, e. g. an ester in admixture with filaments of another cellulose derivative, e. g. an ester of different ester content or an ether. Furthermore, the yarns may consist, wholly or in part, of "staple fibre, i. e. relatively short lengths of organic derivative of cellulose filaments.

The yarns may be formed into fabric by any suitable method such as weaving, warp knitting, circular knitting, netting, knotting and the like. The invention is particularly applicable, however, to the formation of fabrics which have a fairly open construction and an organdy stiflness and resiliency, in all respects similar to the organdies made by coating ninon, voile or light weight taffetas with a stiffening material. Such fabrics are formed by weaving in both weft and warp yarns having a denier between and 150. These fabrics may contain from to 135 ends per inch in the warp and from 85 to 105 picks per inch of filling. Fabrics so constructed are of the light organdy type.

The fabric need not be constructed entirely oi. organic derivative of cellulose yarns twisted as above described. However, the stiffness and resiliency of the resulting fabric will be somewhat proportional to the amount of these yarns employed. It is within the scope of this invention to form fabrics containing organic derivative of cellulose yarns made as described above in conjunction with organic derivative of cellulose yarns containing little or no twist, or twist which has not been set in the presence of a heated fluid or organic derivative of cellulose threads twisted to such a degree that they produce a crepe effect. Furthermore, the organic derivative of cellulose yarns produced as above described may be interwoven with yarns of materials other than organic derivatives of cellulose, such as cotton, silk, wool, linen, etc. The yarns constructed in accordance with this invention may be used in the warp or weft or both when employed in conjunction with other types of yarns. The preferred embodiment, however, is. as stated above, the production of organdy type fabrics composed entirely of organic derivative of cellulose yarns having a set twist produced by twisting the yarns to a high degree of'twist in the presence of a plasticizing medium. The twist, however, should not be to such a high degree that it would produce a crepe effect when the fabrics formed therefrom are subjected to a heated bath.

As an illustration of this invention, but withou being limited thereto, the following example is given:

Example Cellulose acetate yarns of denier, 25 filaments are twisted 45 turns per inch while being passed through a steam chamber of suflicient distance that the twist as inserted is set therein. These yarns are woven into a fabric having a taffeta weave employing 126 ends per inch in the warp and 88 picks per inch in the filling. The fabric produced is of the organdy type and the stiffness and resiliency is entirely permanent to both washing and dry cleaning. The fabric is free of any appearance of having had a coating applied thereto and may be flexed continuously without losing its stifi'ness and resiliency.

The term "set twist as employed hereinafter in the claims is to be construed as meaning a twist which has been set by a setting medium.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is merely given by way of iilustration and that many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A stiifened non-crepe fabric comprising yarns containing an organic derivative of cellulose, said yarns having a set twist of a twist coeflicient of from 320 to 480.

2. A stiflened non-crepe fabric comprising 5. An organdy type non-crepe fabric having a tafieta weave and composed of yarns containing an organic derivative of cellulose, 'said yarns having a set'twist of a twist coefficient of from 320 to 480. o

6. An organdy type non-crepe fabric having a tafieta weave and composed of yams containing cellulose acetate, said yarns having a set twist of a twist coefiicient of from 320 to 480. I

7. In a method of producing a non-crepe fabric having stiiIness and resiliency, the step of weaving a fabric from yarns containing organic de rivatives of cellulose and having a twist of a twist coefficient of from 320 to 480, the twist being set therein by twisting said yarns while under the influence of a hot aqueous medium.

8. In a method of producing a non-crepe fabric having stiffness'and resiliency the step of weaving a fabric from yarns containing cellulose acetate and having a twist of a twist coefficient of from 320 to 480, the twist being set therein by twisting said yarns while under the influence of a hot aqueous medium.

9. Ina method of producing a non-crepe fabric having stifl'ness and resiliency, the steps of weaving a fabric from yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose and having a twist of a twist coeilicient of from 320 to 480, the twist being set therein by twisting said yarns in the presence oi? a plasticizer for said organic derivatives of cellulose.

10. In a method of producing a non-crepe fabjric having stiffness and resiliency, the steps of weaving a fabric from yarns containing cellulose acetate and having a twist of a twist coefficient of from 320 to 480, the twist being set therein by twisting saidyarns in the presence of a plasti cizer for the cellulose acetate.

11. In a method of producing a non-crepe fabric having stifiness and resiliency, the step of weaving a fabric from yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose and having a twist of a twist coefficient of from 320 to 480, the twist being set therein by twisting said yarns while under the influence of a hot aqueous medium and in the presence of a plasticizer for the organic derivatives of cellulose.

12. In a method of producing'a non-crepe fab ric having stiffness. and resiliency, the step of weaving a fabric from yarns containing cellulose acetate and having a twist of a twist coeflicient of from 320 to 480, the twist being set therein by twisting said yarns while under the influence of plasticizer for the cellulose acetate.

HERBERT PLATTL 

